Hello, Folks ---
Shazam, I'm not the only analog guy here! Thank you, Michael Strogoff.
My equipment is:
1. Stanley 40-ft. x 1-1/4" tape (11-ft. reach-out), for most long measures.
2. Kakley (local shop)/True Value 25-ft. x 1" tape (5-ft. reach-out).
3. Lufkin 6-ft. wood folding carpenters' rule w/ 6" brass extender.
4. Heavy-back yellow pad, narrow-ruled.
5. Pentel #P207, 0.7mm mechanical pencil, w/ "B" lead.
6. (Soon, I hope): Wall-caliper.
The hands-on measuring is a great help in my getting the feel of a building, for my small-projects, manual-drafting (using the same Pentel, on yellow trace) practice.
Techniques include:
1. Running dimensions:
After hooking the end of the tape, I walk the tape, noting critical points w/ the pencil, until I run-out-of tape. Maintaining the tension can be tough at times. Then I walk it again writing those dimensions on the layout on the pad w/ a curved line that indicates the "overall" stretch. This eliminates cumulative errors.
2. Exterior wrap:
Running dims. are great for going around the perimeter on the building. Direction (left - right, or...?) is suited to hooking points, topo, shrubbery, etc. Knowing how to "roll a thorn-bush" is very important.
3. Tall Verticals:
Measure from floor up to 5' or 6', in front of my face. Then measure from the top/ceiling down to the first point, and add-'em-up.
4. Unit counting:
At tall verticals, beyond easy measuring, I count units when available, measured for increments at first. Brick; not just 3 courses for +/- 8", but 9 or more courses. Asphalt shingles are usually 5"/course. Old wood siding, done well, is proportioned to openings, etc., but you'll quickly get an "eye" on each job, for what you can't reach. And, you can reach-out the upper windows. One good (!!!) thing about vinyl siding; that 4" (or whatever) increment, will run forever.
Enjoy!
Thanks ---
Bill Devlin